Exhibition of Regency Fashion

Want to see more of the fashion I talked about in the past two posts? Check out this neat Fashion TV video from a special costume exhibition in Milan!

The Fashion of the Period: Men

For Regency gentlemen, clothes were also a complex matter with various items to be worn as well as outfits for different events. This new style (unlike the over the top colourful fashions of the period before) was modeled on the riding outfit and was meant to be natural and simple (Pool, 1993). There are also special uniforms for those gentlemen in the army or the navy. The standard suit is comprised of 5 elements: the shirt, pants, waistcoat, cravat and coat. Like the women, men had different outfits for different events. There is morning dress and evening dress.

Shirt

A simple white linen shirt worn under any outfit. It is loose fitting with long puffy sleeves and a collar that is stood up to touch the chin on both sides. 

Gentleman's white linen shirt: Note how high the collar is

 Waistcoat

A waistcoat during the day tended to be more colourful and decorative. A waistcoat worn during the evening or at a ball tended to be more sober in colour (black, grey and white as an example) and was made of silk, for the wealthy. (Foley, 2012). Waistcoats were sleeveless and some also had pockets. For a man to be seen without his waistcoat by a lady is considered extremely improper.

Different types of waistcoats

Cravat

This was a piece of linen tied around the upturned collar of the shirt made of started muslin and white in colour (Sullivan, 2007). Similar to the modern bow tie except there are several variations.

Actual 19th century guide to neckcloths

Pants

During the day, pantaloons or breeches were worn. Pantaloons are the predecessor of the modern day suit pant and breeches were tight fitting and were fastened at the grain area with a rectangular piece of cloth called ‘falls’ (Foley, 2012). Gradually through the Regency, breeches decreased in popularity, to be replaced by pantaloons.

During the evening, men would wear keen-length breeches with stockings as this picture shows.

Note knee length breeches and white stockings

Coat

Outer garment which came in two variations: a frock coat worn during the day and a dress coat which was worn at night (Pool, 1993). The difference was the frock coat tended to be more colourful where the dress coat was black in colour. The coat tended to have high lapels and was double tailed. A greatcoat was larger and would have up to sixteen capes and would be worn outdoors when riding to protect the gentleman from rain or the cold (Sullivan, 2007).

Morning/riding clothes: boots are worn during the day

Accessories

• Shoes: During the day, boots reaching to the knee were worn and at a ball shoes with buckles would be worn with gentlemen’s stockings and breeches.
• Hats: The typical top hat was worn outdoors and only during the day.
• Gloves: Black for day wear and white for evening wear.
• Jewellery: Rings, brooches (pinned to a gentleman’s cravat) and fob watches (put inside a man’s waistcoat or breeches pocket) were popular pieces (Byrde, 2008).
• Walking Stick: A must for any proper gentleman. Normally had a head of ivory or silver.

Walking Stick

Military outfits

Because England was fighting a war during this time, those men in the military would wear their costumes during formal events but NOT during the day. This is an honorable distinction for those who are serving their country.

The Duke of Wellington in his army outfit

Sources:

Byrde, P. (2008). Jane Austen Fashion. Ludlow: Moonrise Press.

Foley, G. (2012). History Article 2: THE GENTLEMAN'S WARDROBE. Retrieved April 28, 2012, from Gaelen Foley NYT Bestselling Author of Historical Romance: http://www.gaelenfoley.com/h-02-gentswardrobe.html

Pool, D. (1993). What Jane Austen Knew and Charles Dickens Ate. New York: Touchstone.

Sullivan, M. C. (2007). The Jane Austen Handbook. Philadelphia: Quirk Books.

The Fashion of the Period: Women

The Regency had its very own fashion, as I previously mentioned, which included light, simple, empire-waisted dresses and lack of any artificiality.

The clothes were 'filmy, gauzy and virtually transparent at the beginning of the century,' Daniel Pool commented in his book (Pool, 1993).

There were five layers of clothing Regency women had to wear: They are the chemise, corset, petticoat, dress and outer clothing. The reason for so many layers was because of the thinness of the actual dress layer, which would not be much protection against the coldness of the weather.

Accessories included a bonnet, gloves, and reticule among others. Of course, the dress layer was then further divided into three sections for morning, afternoon and evening. Of course then there were other gowns for special occasions like a ball gown, walking dress, riding habit, mourning gown, wedding gown and a court dress.

The Chemise
The first layer of clothing was the chemise and it was usually made of linen and was short, going down only to a lady’s knees. This piece of clothing was designed to keep a barrier between the skin and the rest of the clothing so as to keep them cleaner and it also acted as a barrier between skin and corset so to protect a lady’s delicate skin from chafing (Sullivan, 2007).

Credit to Sue's Old Fashions

The Corset
Probably the most well known article of clothing associated with this time period. This was different from a Victorian corset as it was not meant to create a tiny waist, but instead provide support to the breasts. A corset could be laced up from the front or back during this time and could be as short as a regular bra today. They also had sleeves at this time.

Corset over chemise

The Petticoat
This went over the chemise and corset and looked like a gown but simpler without sleeves. Sometimes they could be part of a lady’s outfit shown through a gauzy top dress or as part of an open robe dress as the picture below shows (Sullivan, 2007). A lady could wear up to five petticoats under one dress and the daring ladies would wet their petticoats so that they would cling to their body!

Credit to Museum of Fine Arts Boston (Note the embroidered hem)

Open Robe Dress

The Dress

• Morning Dress: This was a very simple, usually white dress that would only be worn in the house and was usually recycled from old gowns as this gown was not meant to be seen by outsiders.
• Afternoon Dress: This was a more colourful dress usually with a decorative hemline and was meant to be seen. During the day, showing one’s breasts was forbidden, so ladies usually wore a little chemisette (a little half shirt) under the dress or used a fichu (a bit of lace or netting) to cover up (Sullivan, 2007).
• Evening dress: This was when a lady’s best dresses were worn and were usually elaborate and had bolder colours. At night, a lady could show off her breasts and add other accessories, like a headdress or some pretty jewellery.

Fashion Plate Ackermann's 1812 Ball Dress

Outer Clothing
This was usually worn when outside to keep a lady warm.

• Pelisse: A long coat that can be as long as a lady’s dress (Sullivan, 2007).
• Spencer: A cropped jacket with long sleeves
• Shawl: This could be worn indoors and out and was made of light wool or silk. Traditional Indian shawls were extremely popular with the traditional paisley design. (Byrde, 2008)
• Cloaks

Woman on right is wearing a green military inspired spencer

 Accessories

• Gloves: Worn outside for protection. White elbow length gloves are worn for balls and functions. (Sullivan, 2007)
• Bonnets: Worn outside only and could be trimmed with colourful ribbons, as well as fruit and flowers. This was a popular woman’s hobby; to spend time decorating a bonnet. (Byrde, 2008)
• Caps: White and lacy; worn only by married ladies or spinsters (Sullivan, 2007).
• Stockings: Worn up to the knee and tied with a garter or ribbon
• Footwear: Indoor shoes were resembled the modern flat, while half boots were worn for walking and riding and pattens (wooden shoes with a fram that rasied the wearer off the ground and went over regular shoes) were worn during muddy and wet weather (Byrde, 2008).
• Reticule: Small circular bag to carry handkerchief, perfume bottle, money (Byrde, 2008).  

La Belle Asembelee 1817 Fashion Plate: Lady is in full outdoor dress with pelisse, bonnet, shawl and reticule

 
Other special dresses

• Riding habit: Worn for riding horses and included a special jacket worn over a simple white dress with a chemisette to cover up (Sullivan, 2007).
• Mourning dresses: Black and made of rough cloth called bombazine. Usually worn for one year for a widow, six months for children and three months for siblings (Sullivan, 2007).
• Wedding dresses: White is not mandatory and a bonnet with a veil is worn to complete the look (Sullivan, 2007).
• Court dress: Only worn ONCE when a young lady is making her debut into society and is being presented to the Queen. Usually consisted of a large embroidered, elaborate dress in the style of the period previous, with hoops and a towering head dress (Hern).

Ackermann Plate 1817 Riding Habit (Note jacket and riding hat)

Sources:
 

Byrde, P. (2008). Jane Austen Fashion. Ludlow: Moonrise Press.

Hern, C. (n.d.). FASHION PRINTS: Court Dresses. Retrieved April 19, 2012, from Candice Hern Romance Novelist: http://www.candicehern.com/collections/06/court_dresses.htm

Pool, D. (1993). What Jane Austen Knew and Charles Dickens Ate. New York: Touchstone.

Sullivan, M. C. (2007). The Jane Austen Handbook. Philadelphia: Quirk Books.

History: The Who, What, Where and Why of Regency England

Ask anybody what the Victorian period is and you will always get a response, even a basic, vague answer. Everybody has at least heard about the Victorian period. Ask anybody what the Regency period is and it's likely you'll get a confused look, unless of course you're a fan of English history or Jane Austen.

Simply put, the Regency is a little cut of the 19th century spanning the years from 1811-1820, right before the Victorian period and after the Georgian period in England.

The Regency gets its name from King George IV, the Prince of Wales, who served as Prince Regent for his father King George III who was deemed mad (The Regency Period, 2009). The Prince Regent was fat and known for his scandal and notorious gambling. The majority of his people disliked him and sympathized with his neglected wife, Princess Caroline.

The Prince Regent

The Regency is also famous as it is time when Napoleon’s war with England was being waged. In 1815, Napoleon was defeated at the battle of Waterloo.

The Regency also made a lot of advances in terms of fashion. The Georgian period which came before was known for its big ball gowns, towering wigs, colourful outfits and powdered faces (The Regency, 2007). Even men wore powder and rouge on their faces!

A Georgian woman-notice the tall wig and big dress

But thanks to the French Revolution, things began to change. Fashions became simpler in order to calm the uprising of the poor who protested against the big gap between the social classes. The gaudy fashions of the Georgian period were replaced with the simpler, more elegant fashions of the Regency. Women’s clothing wad inspired by Classical Greek and Roman styles and had a more natural feel and was looser and less colourful than the old style. What defined these dresses was an empire waist, usually held with a ribbon or a sash of some kind, with a loose flowing skirt (The Regency Era).

A Regency woman-note the simple dress and natural hair

Men also wore more sober clothing in dark colours like black or navy. The top hat was also invented at this time as well. Beau Brummell was a leading male figure of this time and he was the one who created what would later be known as the modern suit, emphasizing well fitting clothing, cleanliness and masculine simplicity.

A Regency gentleman

The society of the Regency was governed by a strict set of rules and men and women rarely had any physical interaction outside of marriage. This is why the best romances today originated from the Regency period. 

Dancing was a major way for men and women to get to know each other better without the gaze of a chaperone watching their every move. This is why balls are such a major focus of the Regency and there are a range from planned dances at established dance halls to house party balls to even impromtu dances in the home (Ashford).

A Regency ball

In other areas, the Regency made major advances for history This period was the start of the Industrial Revolution as well as the Romantic movement in art, which placed more emphasis on the individual and the expression of emotion. Writing also changed in this period, as people started to write more realistic stories focusing on characters, rather than over the top dramatic gothic romances with their far-fetched storylines. 

This is also the time of Beethoven and the birth of ‘classical music.’ (A Regency Era Primer, 2006) Even cooking was affected as the Regency produced the world’s first celebrity chef: Antonin Careme.

A Classic example of Romantic art

However, the Regency still had a number of issues that would take years to overcome. Firstly, the gap between the social classes had never been higher (The Regency, 2007). Also, women had almost no rights and depended greatly upon making a good marriage. In the medical arena, the Regency had a long way to go as bloodletting and laudanum were used widely as treatments for even the simplest of illnesses.

But for all that, the Regency period is still considered a very influential part of world history.

Sources:

A Regency Era Primer. (2006). Retrieved April 12, 2012, from We Make History: http://www.wemakehistory.com/Fashion/Regency/Regency.htm

Ashford, V. (n.d.). Britain Express. Retrieved April 12, 2012, from Regency Dances: http://www.britainexpress.com/History/regency-dances.htm

The Regency. (2007). Retrieved April 11, 2012, from The Oregon Regency Society: http://www.orregency.org/description.htm

The Regency Era. (n.d.). Retrieved April 11, 2012, from Eras of Elegance: http://www.erasofelegance.com/history/regencylife.html

The Regency Period. (2009, July 19). Retrieved April 11, 2012, from USQ Artsworx: http://www.usq.edu.au/artsworx/schoolresources/emma/theregencyperiod