The Fashion of the Period: Women

The Regency had its very own fashion, as I previously mentioned, which included light, simple, empire-waisted dresses and lack of any artificiality.

The clothes were 'filmy, gauzy and virtually transparent at the beginning of the century,' Daniel Pool commented in his book (Pool, 1993).

There were five layers of clothing Regency women had to wear: They are the chemise, corset, petticoat, dress and outer clothing. The reason for so many layers was because of the thinness of the actual dress layer, which would not be much protection against the coldness of the weather.

Accessories included a bonnet, gloves, and reticule among others. Of course, the dress layer was then further divided into three sections for morning, afternoon and evening. Of course then there were other gowns for special occasions like a ball gown, walking dress, riding habit, mourning gown, wedding gown and a court dress.

The Chemise
The first layer of clothing was the chemise and it was usually made of linen and was short, going down only to a lady’s knees. This piece of clothing was designed to keep a barrier between the skin and the rest of the clothing so as to keep them cleaner and it also acted as a barrier between skin and corset so to protect a lady’s delicate skin from chafing (Sullivan, 2007).

Credit to Sue's Old Fashions

The Corset
Probably the most well known article of clothing associated with this time period. This was different from a Victorian corset as it was not meant to create a tiny waist, but instead provide support to the breasts. A corset could be laced up from the front or back during this time and could be as short as a regular bra today. They also had sleeves at this time.

Corset over chemise

The Petticoat
This went over the chemise and corset and looked like a gown but simpler without sleeves. Sometimes they could be part of a lady’s outfit shown through a gauzy top dress or as part of an open robe dress as the picture below shows (Sullivan, 2007). A lady could wear up to five petticoats under one dress and the daring ladies would wet their petticoats so that they would cling to their body!

Credit to Museum of Fine Arts Boston (Note the embroidered hem)

Open Robe Dress

The Dress

• Morning Dress: This was a very simple, usually white dress that would only be worn in the house and was usually recycled from old gowns as this gown was not meant to be seen by outsiders.
• Afternoon Dress: This was a more colourful dress usually with a decorative hemline and was meant to be seen. During the day, showing one’s breasts was forbidden, so ladies usually wore a little chemisette (a little half shirt) under the dress or used a fichu (a bit of lace or netting) to cover up (Sullivan, 2007).
• Evening dress: This was when a lady’s best dresses were worn and were usually elaborate and had bolder colours. At night, a lady could show off her breasts and add other accessories, like a headdress or some pretty jewellery.

Fashion Plate Ackermann's 1812 Ball Dress

Outer Clothing
This was usually worn when outside to keep a lady warm.

• Pelisse: A long coat that can be as long as a lady’s dress (Sullivan, 2007).
• Spencer: A cropped jacket with long sleeves
• Shawl: This could be worn indoors and out and was made of light wool or silk. Traditional Indian shawls were extremely popular with the traditional paisley design. (Byrde, 2008)
• Cloaks

Woman on right is wearing a green military inspired spencer

 Accessories

• Gloves: Worn outside for protection. White elbow length gloves are worn for balls and functions. (Sullivan, 2007)
• Bonnets: Worn outside only and could be trimmed with colourful ribbons, as well as fruit and flowers. This was a popular woman’s hobby; to spend time decorating a bonnet. (Byrde, 2008)
• Caps: White and lacy; worn only by married ladies or spinsters (Sullivan, 2007).
• Stockings: Worn up to the knee and tied with a garter or ribbon
• Footwear: Indoor shoes were resembled the modern flat, while half boots were worn for walking and riding and pattens (wooden shoes with a fram that rasied the wearer off the ground and went over regular shoes) were worn during muddy and wet weather (Byrde, 2008).
• Reticule: Small circular bag to carry handkerchief, perfume bottle, money (Byrde, 2008).  

La Belle Asembelee 1817 Fashion Plate: Lady is in full outdoor dress with pelisse, bonnet, shawl and reticule

 
Other special dresses

• Riding habit: Worn for riding horses and included a special jacket worn over a simple white dress with a chemisette to cover up (Sullivan, 2007).
• Mourning dresses: Black and made of rough cloth called bombazine. Usually worn for one year for a widow, six months for children and three months for siblings (Sullivan, 2007).
• Wedding dresses: White is not mandatory and a bonnet with a veil is worn to complete the look (Sullivan, 2007).
• Court dress: Only worn ONCE when a young lady is making her debut into society and is being presented to the Queen. Usually consisted of a large embroidered, elaborate dress in the style of the period previous, with hoops and a towering head dress (Hern).

Ackermann Plate 1817 Riding Habit (Note jacket and riding hat)

Sources:
 

Byrde, P. (2008). Jane Austen Fashion. Ludlow: Moonrise Press.

Hern, C. (n.d.). FASHION PRINTS: Court Dresses. Retrieved April 19, 2012, from Candice Hern Romance Novelist: http://www.candicehern.com/collections/06/court_dresses.htm

Pool, D. (1993). What Jane Austen Knew and Charles Dickens Ate. New York: Touchstone.

Sullivan, M. C. (2007). The Jane Austen Handbook. Philadelphia: Quirk Books.